99 Ford Explorer: Difference between revisions
Line 105: | Line 105: | ||
# Remove gasket (ideally in 1 piece to reduce cleanup) | # Remove gasket (ideally in 1 piece to reduce cleanup) | ||
# Look for any plastic debris | # Look for any plastic debris | ||
=== Engine Teardown (timing) === | |||
# Take lots of pictures and note sprocket orientation | |||
# Remove main tensioner | |||
# Remove Jackshaft Bolt (E18) | |||
== Needed Tools == | == Needed Tools == |
Revision as of 09:26, 6 May 2021
Resources
- Excellent 4 part FordTechMakuloco series
Tips for Pulling Engine
General
- Take lots of pictures
- Keep bolts with what they belong too (if possible)
Prep
- Spray Rust Pentrant
- Exhaust Manifold
- Engine Mounts
- Drain Coolant
- Drain Oil
- Mark Plug Wires
Underneath
- Disconnect Exhaust Manifold
- Mark One Bolt on Torque Converter w/ White Paint
Front
- Alternator
- Power Steering
- Compressor
- Intake (Upper and Lower)
- Fan, Radiator, Condensor
Engine Mount
- Remove Engine Mount to Frame Nuts
- Loosen Engine Mount to Engine Bolts
Initial Lift
- Connect chains to front of left head and back of right head
- Support transmissision w/ jack and block of wood
- Lift Engine Slightly
- Once engine weight is on hoist, remove engine mount entirely to make it easier to dismount/mount transmission
- Remove last 2 bellhousing bolts
- Disconnect fuel line (do it last so you don't smell fuel)
Remove
- Raise a few Inches
- Shake free from transmission
- Verify that everything is free
- Gently raise a few inches at a time verifying clearances
- Raise to clear front radiator area, drag engine free, but move very slowly to prevent a tip
- Once clear of truck, lower to reduce center of gravity
Post Removal Cleanup
- Make sure torque converter is fully seated
- Put transmission on jack stand
- Put rags in exhaust pipes
- Use equalizer to lift back of engine and finish draining coolant
- Plug intake holes with rags
Flex Plate Removal and Engine Mounting
- Remove 1 bolt
- With white paint marker, mark threads and hole
- Remove flex plate
- Remove bracket covering jack shaft
- For bottom engine mount holes, tap dowels with M12 tap, thread bolt, and then use slide hammer to pull dowels
Engine Teardown (Top)
- Blow everything off well with compressed air
- Ensure fuel line isn't leaking
- May require heating EGR bolt well to remove
- Take pictures of front of engine
- Remove Parts
- Waterpump
- Thermostat Housing
- Dampener
- Remove 19mm bolt in center
- Insert M8 1.25 thread 100mm long bolt into dampener holes
- There's nothing to press against, so insert metal rod of some kind inside hole
- Install dampener removal tool and press dampener off
- Front Cover (Waterpump Area) (leave top bolt in loose and pry part is top right)
- Valve Covers
- Roller followers (need rocker removal tool OTC 303-567)
- May not be able to do 1 end rocker so move cam neutral)
- See 22:52
- Remove tensioners (1 1/16")
- Camshaft Sprocket Bolts
- Driver side (normal right hand thread)
- Passenger side (left hand thread) !!
- Remove Camshaft caps and pull camshaft and caps together (maintain order)
- Remove last rocker roller
Engine Teardown (bottom)
- Pull lower pan (10mm)
- Remove intake tube (lift while unscrewing)
- Remove t-30 torque bolts in back of block (1 long, 1 short)
- Remove 8 inner bolts (13mm)
- Remove outside bolts and nuts (10mm)
- Gently tap front to break seal
- Remove gasket (ideally in 1 piece to reduce cleanup)
- Look for any plastic debris
Engine Teardown (timing)
- Take lots of pictures and note sprocket orientation
- Remove main tensioner
- Remove Jackshaft Bolt (E18)
Needed Tools
- 5lb slide hammer
- Ford Timing Kit
- M12 bolt for Pulling Engine Dowels
- Engine Hoist Equalizer
- Dampener Removal Tool
- Rocker Removal Tool (OTC 303-567)
Parts to Replace
- Rear main seal
- Jackshaft seal
- Timing Components
- Oil Pan Seal kit
- Head gasket kit